We drove the spine of Syria, north from Damascus by Homs and Hama to Aleppo, after which south west, by the cities and villages of southern Idlib.

The dimensions of the devastation is nearly inconceivable to understand. Sure, there may be day by day life and markets and bustling industrial life within the metropolis centres.

However there are additionally ghost cities stretching on for mile after mile the place frontlines had been fought over and positions deserted, tanks left to rot, minefields to maim.

The gutted carcasses of tens of millions of houses, the signature of horrific firepower, Russian air strikes and Assad’s barrel bombs, flung at civilian life.

Eleven million individuals fled their houses throughout Syria’s 13-year civil battle. That is the rubble and dirt they left behind.

Kafr Nabl was an activist city in southern Idlib identified, within the early years of the battle, as the guts of the revolution.

Now there may be not a soul about, however graffiti artists have been by for the reason that fall of the regime and left a celebratory message: “The revolution is an thought. Kafr Nabl is free!”

On a hilltop close by, Um Abdo and her husband Abu Abdo are busy pruning again olive bushes subsequent to what was an Iranian place, and earlier than that their house.

“How are we going to have the ability to rebuild if we do not have sufficient to eat,” says Um Abdo tearfully. “Look behind me, it is all ruins. The place will we even begin?”

She appears extra upset concerning the destruction of her olive and fig bushes than she is about her house. They’re an aged couple they usually have been by hell.

Um Abdo lists thirty relations who had been killed throughout the battle, most of them, her two brothers included, by barrel bombs. Her husband spent three years in jail.

When he got here out he discovered his village destroyed and his household dwelling in displacement camps.

Now Assad is gone, they’ve determined to strive life again house with their olive bushes and their little gray pet.

Their sons battle with HTS, and they’re followers of its chief Ahmad al Sharaa. “He is such a good man with nice manners,” Um Abdo says.

“A person of faith, a person with morals. Every part about him is ethical. If he takes over, your entire nation shall be advantageous.”

A person we meet making an attempt to repair his bike says: “Wherever he’s there may be safety. Issues are good.

“He does not have an ego. He is not strict. He does not, for instance, go round saying ‘execute this man, execute that man’. There’s none of that.

“He does not go round saying you are not allowed to smoke, all of us smoke, it is advantageous!”

It is a message we hear repeatedly, that al Sharaa has introduced stability to Idlib. That even these dwelling within the large displacement camps round Idlib really feel secure, due to his Salvation Authorities.

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One among his signature achievements in Idlib was to cease the combating between warring factions and produce them beneath one authority. His problem now could be to do the identical throughout the entire of Syria.

He stays a needed terrorist with a $10,000 bounty on his head. He was a jihadi, establishing Al Qaeda’s community in Syria – however he says he is modified.

Idlib is run in keeping with Sharia legislation however he appears to be suggesting that will not be the case throughout the nation. Suffice to say, it depends upon what he does, not what he says.

What’s painfully clear is that he takes on an completely damaged nation. As we’re driving in direction of Idlib, a van loaded down with household possessions makes its manner in direction of us by the bombed-out streets.

We ask the mom inside what her plans are. She desires to return to her house, despite the fact that it is destroyed. She has a tent together with her for her household, a bit boy and a lady.

Her husband was arrested 9 years in the past and brought to Sednaya jail. She came upon final week that he was lifeless.

“I went blind from all of the crying”, she says. “They killed him after torturing him and ravenous him. Have you learnt these iron presses that they used?

“My son was just one 12 months outdated after they took him away. He does not know something about his father.”

Her son tries to appease her. “Softly, softly,” he whispers as she sobs.

He’s solely ten. He should not have to do that.